Talk about a trip you took out to Anza Borrego
Indianhead East Ridge
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tekewin Posts: 367
12 hours ago
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My friend Henry and I took on the east ridge of Indianhead a few days ago. I had climbed Indianhead twice: the standard DPS route B up Palm Canyon, and also the north ridge (the easiest route), but this would be Henry's first time on the mountain. The first mile was steep, 1700' of up, but presented no serious obstacles. The ridge mellowed as it rose slowly to the unofficial Borrego Point (2,925'), marked with a small cairn. Then, we faced the first of three challenging bumps.
Borrego Point with the hard part ahead
As we got near the first bump, the slope was at a 50-60 degree angle. Even before we got there, I was planning for a bypass on the north side. When we hit the first class 4 slab, I spotted a gully a couple hundred feet north that looked class 3. I decided to downclimb about 100' to reach the gully. Henry climbed one of the red boulders to explore above. The gully was easier and less exposed than the ridge and I made good time. Henry didn't like the continuation, so he dropped down and came up behind me. We made steady progress and reached the second major bump. We got very near the top of the second bump when we hit the next class 4 section. There were two options to continue up. Both hung over a 300' drop. The downclimb to get around this one about 400' down (ugh) but staying on top of the ridge felt too risky. We kept going down until we reached the second gully. If we had gotten turned back again, we would have bailed due to lack of water. Fortunately, we made it to the ridge and proceeded to the last major bump. I didn't seriously probe the rocks on top, but looked for downclimb number three on the north side. I dropped through a little portal, down a slab going away from the summit, then skirted the side of the bump to attain the ridge about 200' below the top. Looking back, it might have been possible to go over the last bump without undo risk.
This was a nope. Downclimb on north side.
Summit in view
Looking back at the final obstacle on the east ridge
The tough terrain had cost us about two hours, but now I was on familiar ground. We signed in and took a well earned respite. We descended down the NW ridge, the standard DPS route B. It was a relief to hit the official trail past the oasis for an easy finish. The east ridge was fun, challenging, and humbling. It was the most difficult of the three routes I've done. A one and done for me. I still need to do the southeast gully, DPS route A, so my visits to this wonderful mountain are not over.
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